The following post was written by our very own My Hammy Vice. As a new league, little things like cleaning our bearings and choosing a toe-stop length are life-altering decisions in our world. I remember when some of the skaters started looking into new skates and what a crazy notion that was! Now we have girls going all out and just taking the bull by the horns...in the form of changing out their plates! I mean, this isn't something to be taken lightly, when you are not all that familiar with this sort of thing. But it didn't stop Renee, and she was kind enough to document the whole process. Really for the rest of the league, but why not for anyone who needs some guidance!?
So, here it is...in her own words...
How to Replace Your Skate Plates
by Renee Lincoln
NOTE: I am NOT a professional skate plate replacement person. I wanted new plates, bought them, and installed them. I am just letting you know how I did it.
Stuff You Will Need…
1. Painters Tape
3. Wrench and correct
6. Dremel w/metal cutting
7. Hot glue and glue gun
8. Drill and correct drill bit
9. New plates
Optional: vice grip
Step 1: Strip down your skates.Remove your laces, toe stops, insoles (that thin piece of material on the bottom of the inside of your boot), and truck assemblies. All that should be left are the king pins, plate, nut and bolts.
Back off the nuts, remove washers and bolts. You may have to hold the bolt in place with the screwdriver while backing off the nuts so that the bolt doesn’t spin.
Step 2: Fill holes with hot glue
(ONLY if the holes do not line up with your new plates).
You can also use Bondo putty, but I didn’t have any! Clean off the sole of the boot and remove any extra glue.
Step 3: Mark your center line
Instead of marking up the actual boot with chalk, I placed painters tape in all the areas that needed to be marked. The first places you want to tape are from the top to bottom of the toe cap, the back of the heel and across the bottom of the boot where the ball of YOUR foot is. To tape this spot, I put my boot on and stood on the ball of my foot, then placed the tape. It is usually around the widest part of the boot.
1. Mark the center of the heel.
2. Mark between your 2nd and 3rd toe. (Your big toe is #1) Draw this line all the way around to the bottom.
3. Run a piece of tape from your toe mark to the heel mark.
4. Take a ruler and draw a line from the heel mark to the toe mark. This is your centerline! (Measure from the center line, out, at the ball of the foot mark, it should be equidistant.)
Step 4: Marking and drilling out the holes
1. Put on the front truck (instructions on how the truck assembly goes is below) so you can line up your front axle at the ball of your foot mark. It is much easier if you have a “third hand” to do this. I have a vice grip, but you could probably use a couple of cans of soup or something to hold the boot.
2. Place some tape across the boot where your holes are going to be so that you can mark them. Line everything up and mark the holes with a pen.
Make sure when you do your second plate the front of your plates are the same distance from the tip. Mine were ¾”.
3. TAKE THE PLATE OFF AND DRILL OUT YOUR HOLES! I know you’re scared, but commit to it!
(Oh, if you are using soup cans, you might want to adjust them so you don’t make a mess!)
**I chose to use a drill bit one size smaller than needed figuring that I could drill the hole out more if had to. I didn’t need to though.**
IT’S DONE! YOU CAN BREATH NOW!!!!
Step 5: Attaching the new plates
When you purchased your new plates they should have come with a plate mounting kit, which consists of nuts, washers and bolts. Mine did not, so I had to order separate.
With a screwdriver, insert all four bolts through the inside of the boot. Attach your plate. If your drilling skills were not all that great, you may have to wiggle it on a bit. Amazingly, mine lined up perfectly.
Place a washer and nut on the bolt. Tighten down using a screwdriver to hold the bolt in place while screwing on the nut.
Oh, if you don’t have a deep socket wrench, you can use an open wrench, if your bolts are too long for the socket.
Tighten down, but not so tight that your bolts go through the boot. I tightened just until they indented a bit.
Once you’re all tightened up, you will need to cut off the excess bolt threads.
The easiest way to do this is with a dremel with a metal cutting wheel.
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES
Now all that is left is attaching your trucks, wheels, and toe stops!
HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR TRUCKS
Place a washer (cup) and a round cushion (bushing) onto the kingpin.
Then the smaller washer (cup) and kingpin nut. This is where you tighten and loosen your truck.
And there you have it!! (I apologize for the odd format. Renee's kick ass layout did not want to cooperate with my stone-age computer and software.)
Sure, drilling holes in your skates probably makes you want to puke (if you're new to skating equipment alterations), but just take it slow, measure twice, and start with a smaller drill bit and go bigger if you need to (great tip, Hammy!!)
IN OTHER NEWS:
*We were in Cape Cod Magazine!! I'll be posting again soon with that excitement.
**We've started another fresh meat clinic. This time it will run for 6 weeks and be a more involved workshop/boot camp. It's very exciting and just the first of many, I'm sure. (this clinic is full, so I won't bother with a link at this point. Keep up with CCRD fan page, if you want to be sure and catch the next one.)
***We're having another fundraiser! This one involves raffles, bands, door prizes, and the unveiling of Salty Doll IPA! A brew concocted just for us by the hubby of Bandita, who happens to be the brew master at our local brewery!! Here's a link to the fundraiser event page...You should plan on going.
--> BEER,BANDS,BROADS! (sorry it that's offensive...i think it's catchy.)
****You can find out a little about the magazine spread and the fundraiser on the fan page too!! HERE